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Hong Kong, my vanishing city

by moneymarket
April 29, 2022
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Hong Kong, my vanishing city
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Throughout Melbourne’s lengthy lockdown, I grew to become hooked on an app that delivers a livestream of the view from another person’s window someplace on this planet. I beloved the cerulean shock of the Aegean Sea or the russet leaves of a South Korean mountainside.

Sooner or later, I used to be clicking by once I was out of the blue delivered a sundown filmed from a housing property on the seafront in Hong Kong’s Ap Lei Chau. I might hear the comforting hum of Cantonese, the flare of a fuel flame, the sizzle of stir-frying. I couldn’t deliver myself to shut the window. I left it there, watching the birds fly previous and the sky flip from pink to gray to black. It was a portal to the previous, to a house to which I might not return.

After lockdown ended, one Melbourne cinema confirmed a collection of movies by Hong Kong’s arthouse director Wong Kar-wai. Night time after evening, I went. Virtually instantly I realised I might determine the Hong Kongers within the viewers. Usually, like me, they got here alone. They selected seats that have been barely other than different individuals. As soon as the movie began, you could possibly hear them weeping quietly in the dead of night, mourning the misplaced metropolis on the display in entrance of them.

One night, collection curator Kristy Matheson gave a brief introduction to Pleased Collectively. Filmed in Buenos Aires and launched in 1997, the 12 months of Hong Kong’s return to China, it tells the story of a tortured homosexual relationship, which many learn as an allegory for Hong Kong’s relationship with China. The couple reside in exile in a sort of floating limbo, with none acquainted rituals or important moments to mark the passage of time. Matheson ended with a quote from Wong describing the temper in 1997 earlier than Hong Kong returned to China: “We wished to flee, however the extra we wished to flee, the extra we grew to become inseparable from Hong Kong. Regardless of the place we went, Hong Kong was at all times with us.”

In a scene from the film ‘Happy Together’, two men sit in a car, one resting his head on the other’s shoulder
The 1997 movie ‘Pleased Collectively’, by Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai © Alamy Inventory Photograph

That could be a state acquainted to Hong Kong’s new exiles. The town’s inhabitants of seven.4mn is shrinking, quick. Some residents are leaving so out of the blue they’re abandoning their costly vehicles in automotive parks. Virtually 150,000 residents have left (in internet phrases) because the finish of 2021, together with greater than 50,000 individuals within the first half of March alone. Based on Hong Kong’s Public Opinion Analysis Institute, nearly 1 / 4 of town’s residents have plans to depart.


One impetus is Hong Kong’s draconian Covid laws. Till lately, Covid-positive individuals have been despatched to isolate in quarantine camps, whereas a Hong Kong charity estimates that as much as 2,000 contaminated kids have been separated from their mother and father in hospital.

The larger issue stays the political local weather within the aftermath of the huge 2019 protests. In June 2020, Beijing imposed nationwide safety laws on Hong Kong, outlawing secession, subversion, terrorism and collusion with overseas powers. These crimes are so poorly outlined that clapping throughout a courtroom listening to now apparently constitutes a seditious exercise, as does criticising the federal government’s Covid response on social media, or sporting a T-shirt or possessing stickers bearing the favored protest slogan “Liberate Hong Kong, Revolution of Our Occasions”.

A protester waves a flag with the slogan ‘Liberate Hong Kong, Revolution of Our Times’
A protester within the Causeway Bay district in Could 2020 waves a flag with the slogan ‘Liberate Hong Kong, Revolution of Our Occasions’ © Zuma Press/eyevine

One database counts 183 individuals arrested below the nationwide safety legislation since its introduction, a 3rd of them for speech crimes. Vibrant civil society organisations have been pressured to disband and town’s feisty legislature was remodeled past recognition right into a patriots-only physique after 47 political activists have been arrested for subversion for holding a main ballot. Because the nationwide safety legislation is extraterritorial in nature, the potential menace it poses ripples far past Hong Kong’s borders.

When the nationwide safety laws was introduced, I used to be on a Zoom name with my research group. We’re a small assortment of Melbourne-based Hong Kong PhD college students connected to a lot of Australian universities, and our analysis revolves round Hong Kong id. All through lockdown, we met as soon as per week on Zoom to learn and talk about educational papers. However after the brand new laws was introduced, we stopped assembly, stopped studying papers, stopped discussing Hong Kong id.

Our analysis out of the blue appeared irrelevant. In any case, how are you going to analysis one thing whose very expression could possibly be prison? It was exhausting to know what the brand new laws would imply for us — on both an educational or a private degree — however it was clear that it will not be optimistic. It was exhausting even to focus below the circumstances, and one after the other my mates utilized for go away of absence from their research. Their mother and father have been ringing them up, warning them to not come dwelling.

Regardless of my former existence as a journalist in China for the BBC and NPR — negotiating Beijing’s shifting political sensitivities day by day for a decade — I had no helpful recommendation. The unpredictability of Hong Kong’s nationwide safety laws means its crimson strains are in fixed movement, stretching and bleeding right into a crimson sea that swamps an ever-lengthening checklist of actions. In some methods I’m an outsider on this neighborhood; I’m not a Hong Kong native, although I grew up there within the Seventies and Nineteen Eighties with a Chinese language father and an English mom. But I shared their fears, each diffuse and particular.

A group of officials stand near a plaque, which has red curtains either side and pot plants below
Hong Kong chief government Carrie Lam is amongst officers on the opening of the Workplace for Safeguarding Nationwide Safety of the Central Folks’s Authorities within the Hong Kong Particular Administrative Area in July 2020 © Getty Photos

Along with worrying that our analysis may be in contravention of the nationwide safety legislation, we have been anxious that we’d unwittingly endanger those that had participated in it, by bringing their views to the eye of the authorities. We had existential fears about whether or not there was any future within the work we have been doing. However there was no means of discovering out any solutions. The nationwide safety laws was administered by an Orwellian physique referred to as the Workplace for Safeguarding Nationwide Safety of the Central Folks’s Authorities within the Hong Kong Particular Administrative Area, which had arrived out of the blue in Hong Kong in the dark, commandeering a lodge for its use per week after the legislation was enacted.

It quickly grew to become clear that the contours of the nationwide safety laws would solely emerge after that they had been contravened, leaving silence as the one assure of self-preservation.


In search of higher readability on the risks of discussing Hong Kong abroad, I approached Eric Yan-ho Lai, the Hong Kong Legislation fellow at Georgetown College, who was conserving a database on nationwide safety circumstances. I used to be struck by how fastidiously he weighed his phrases in answering. “In case you are not returning to Hong Kong and you might be residing in a rustic which has no extradition treaty with Hong Kong or China, you’ll be able to nonetheless take pleasure in a level of freedom to specific or talk about Hong Kong,” he mentioned. Then he added a disclaimer: “However the hazard or threat could be when it comes to surveillance by Chinese language embassies or their brokers.”

That concern of surveillance by Chinese language brokers is an actual one for Hong Kong college students, whose numbers in Australia are at a file excessive because of the Australian authorities’s choice to grant new pathways to everlasting residence after the nationwide safety legal guidelines have been introduced. Again in 2019, whereas protests have been roiling their metropolis, Hong Kong college students clashed with mainland college students on Australian campuses on a number of events. One college pupil right here advised me that he by no means speaks about Hong Kong’s political state of affairs till he is aware of the stance of each particular person within the room. “We’re afraid that if we are saying one thing that the Chinese language authorities doesn’t like, they may threaten our mother and father, and our mates and kinfolk [back in Hong Kong].”

We all know we’re completely different. We all know that we are supposed to be free as a result of we’ve been free

My little group barely spoke for months. However when Melbourne lastly emerged from lockdown, we gathered in a park, blinking blearily within the unfamiliar sunshine as we ate candy, sticky slices of mango. When the eating places reopened, we shared plates of plump steaming dumplings. We didn’t speak about our analysis. At Christmas, we listened to Cantopop as we dunked lotus root and fish balls within the rolling boil of a hotpot. Midway by the meal, somebody arrived with heat egg waffles and we handed them around the desk like a sacrament, every of us fastidiously breaking off just a few doughy bubbles in order that we might savour the style of dwelling collectively. Slowly, painfully, we have been imagining our personal small Hong Kong into being.

Different new arrivals are doing the identical. Simply earlier than the lunar new 12 months, I went to a pop-up Hong Konger market in Melbourne, held below the domed roof of a Nineteenth-century meat market. Firms run by Hong Kongers have been promoting their gardening providers, lengthy queues have been ready to purchase curried fish balls and there was a bookstall promoting Václav Havel’s The Energy of the Powerless alongside a biography of Li Ka-shing, the tycoon who, throughout the protests, printed cryptic front-page newspaper adverts that have been seen as coded criticism of Beijing’s Hong Kong technique.

In the back of the market area was a Lennon Wall, imitating the protest partitions that sprang up throughout the 2019 protests. Just like the originals, it bore rows of Put up-it notes bearing banned phrases reminiscent of “Liberate Hong Kong, Revolution of Our Occasions”. However the one which caught my eye was an orange word with a crude sketch of Hong Kong’s skyline, under the English phrases “I miss Residence Kong.”

Yellow Post-it notes stuck on a wall have words written on them in English and Chinese
Put up-it notes on a ‘Lennon Wall’ at a Hong Konger market in Melbourne in January . . .  © Louisa Lim

Post-it notes on a wall, one of them stating ‘I miss Home Kong’
. . . expressing eager for ‘Residence Kong’ © Louisa Lim

At a stall promoting political new 12 months couplets to stick in your door frames — bearing phrases like “Embrace Freedom” and “Persist in Your Beliefs” — I met a girl who gave her title as Pearl. She advised me she felt an obligation to talk up as a proxy for these in Hong Kong muzzled by the brand new laws. This openness got here at a value, she advised me, that she had determined to pay. “I do have household in Hong Kong,” she mentioned. “I count on I will be unable to return.”

Such inconceivable calculations, weighing dwelling and household towards freedom of speech, have been pressured on many Hong Kongers. Amongst them is the exiled politician Ted Hui Chi-fung, former legislator for the Democratic get together, a part of the pan-democracy camp that received a landslide victory within the 2019 district polls, the final elections earlier than the nationwide safety laws overhauled the system.

The Democratic party’s Ted Hui Chi-fung, wearing a Covid mask,  leaves court. He is accompanied by a man in a suit and grasps the hand of a well-wisher
The Democratic get together’s Ted Hui Chi-fung leaves courtroom on bail in August 2020, after he had been arrested on protest-related prices © EPA-EFE

Hui was in Melbourne to open the pop-up market. “I’m one of many few who can communicate up,” he advised me, alluding to the handfuls of his colleagues who’re in jail awaiting trial on subversion prices. “That’s why generally I’ll give myself stress [to speak].”

He had been going through not less than 9 prison prices when he fled Hong Kong in 2020. Two Danish politicians who helped him go away are additionally going through potential prosecution by the Chinese language authorities, though they have been in Denmark on the time. Hui’s property, in addition to his spouse’s and his mother and father’, have been frozen by the Hong Kong authorities. “I really feel like I’m simply borrowing the freedoms that I take pleasure in whereas I’m abroad,” he advised me.

Hui commented on how the time period “Hong Konger” was unfamiliar throughout his childhood. It’s an id that has solidified by the protest motion. “Each slogan began with Hong Kong,” he advised me. “We all know we’re completely different. We all know that we are supposed to be free as a result of we’ve been free. We all know we had little room for freedom, and we have to exert that to struggle again.”

Now he fears that “Hong Konger” might grow to be a banned time period at dwelling. However he stays assured that Hong Kong communities in exile won’t be cowed. “The extra you persecute individuals, the extra individuals will treasure that id,” he mentioned firmly. “If it can’t be talked about in Hong Kong, then we’ll speak about it abroad.”


I used to be undecided how true that will be within the nascent Hong Kong neighborhood in Australia, which remains to be racked with insecurity. One litmus check was the choice by neighborhood teams to indicate Revolution of Our Occasions, an award-winning movie in regards to the protest motion by Hong Kong film-maker Kiwi Chow. The documentary has itself been banned within the metropolis, which signifies that simply watching it’s an act of resistance. The day that tickets for the film went on sale in Australia, demand was so excessive that the web site crashed. When it was reinstated, 6,700 tickets have been offered in a single weekend.

My little group managed to purchase tickets for the primary displaying. We met for dinner beforehand at a close-by Cantonese restaurant, in search of out the comforting greasiness of roast pork stomach. Over e-fu noodles dotted with black truffles and a clay pot full of salted fish, tofu and hen, we in contrast the progress of our PhDs. We have been all lastly getting nearer to the end line, however every of us had been suggested to embargo our theses to guard the protection of our informants. Once we began our tasks, our establishments had categorised them as low threat. Now they have been so excessive threat that the analysis to which we had devoted years wouldn’t be made brazenly accessible. Even talking at educational conferences felt risk-laden; each phrase needed to be policed, as a result of who knew who was listening?

A number of of us had simply attended a Zoom discuss on the event of Hong Kong id given by a widely known anthropologist employed in Hong Kong. At a sure level, he veered into broad-brush feedback that framed the nationwide safety legislation as an inevitability. “The handover to China is at a midway level, so it’s solely pure that what occurs occurs,” he mentioned airily, referring to Beijing’s pledge to depart Hong Kong unchanged till 2047.

I didn’t agree together with his feedback, however I didn’t communicate out. As an alternative I scanned the names of the individuals within the Zoom room. There have been many names I didn’t recognise. So, slightly than talking up, I merely left the Zoom. It was an instinctive response, although later I regretted my cowardice and felt ashamed of my complicity in muzzling open dialogue of Hong Kong. If Hong Kong research was being pushed underground, I used to be partly accountable. Over dinner, I discovered that two of my mates had finished precisely the identical. If the intent of the legislation was to create silence, then we have been falling into line.

We have been downbeat as we headed to the cinema. However the temper shifted as we drew nearer and famous the streams of Hong Kongers heading in the identical course. The lobby was stuffed with younger, enthusiastic volunteers. They’d mounted an exhibition of protest photographs exterior the cinema, and everybody was posting photographs on social media. As we sat down, my good friend took out a packet of tissues. At the very same second, a girl within the row in entrance of us did the identical. It turned out we would want them.

A scene from Kiwi Chow’s documentary ‘Revolution of Our Times’ shows police, wearing helmets, fighting with umbrella-carrying protesters
A scene from Kiwi Chow’s documentary ‘Revolution of Our Occasions’ — ‘simply watching the movie is an act of resistance’

For the subsequent two and a half hours, we watched scenes of surprising violence, as police beat protesters and lobbed tear fuel at them, dragging younger individuals throughout the bottom. These scenes winded me, however they didn’t make me cry. Relatively, it was the moments of solidarity that moved me to tears; an previous man heartbroken that he might not shield the younger protesters; a medic begging the police to be allowed to deal with the wounded.

These have been the photographs that jogged my memory of how a lot we had misplaced. The post-protest laws had been designed to destroy any sense of neighborhood. It was alleged to atomise the bonds that made Hong Kongers keen to place their very own lives in danger for complete strangers.

When the movie ended, the viewers remained quiet, shocked. Then a person in entrance of me broke the silence: “Heung gong yan!” (“Hong Kongers!”). Others took up the chorus of the previous protest chant “Gaa yau!” (“Add oil!”). As I stood as much as go away, my chest was tight, constricted as if I have been about to have an bronchial asthma assault. I advised my companions I might hardly breathe. “I can really feel it in my abdomen,” mentioned one good friend. “It feels actually heavy.” One other pointed to her throat, “I really feel it right here. On a regular basis.” Now we actually have been carrying Hong Kong with us. Lastly it had grow to be inseparable from us.

Louisa Lim is the creator of ‘Indelible Metropolis: Dispossession and Defiance in Hong Kong’, which is revealed by Textual content Publishing within the UK and Riverhead Books within the US

FTWeekend Competition: US version

Be part of us on the inaugural US version of the FTWeekend Competition on Could 7. The one-day occasion, ‘The Larger Image: a worldwide tackle the concepts stimulating, diverting — and unsettling — our age’, options main authors, scientists, politicians and naturally FT writers. Restricted passes out there at ftweekendfestival.com

Discover out about our newest tales first — comply with @ftweekend on Twitter


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